2022 Tan Fruit ‘Anela Vineyard’ Chardonnay Oregon

JS96 Very delicate and pristine fruit character, with salted lemons, pineapple, lemon curd and subtle notes of pastry and almonds. Medium- to full-bodied, firm and structured, with a lot of layers and a lot of potential. Voluptuous texture with precision and agility. Mineral backbone with crushed stones and chalk. Focused, succulent finish with length. Better after a year or two.

WA96 For this brand-new wine, second-generation winegrower Jim Maresh sourced Draper selection Chardonnay from the Anela Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains, where vines were planted in 2016 in (unusually for Oregon) very stony soils. It’s a departure for Jim, who crafts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for his Arterberry Maresh wines exclusively from old vines planted, by his grandfather, in the volcanic soils of the Dundee Hills. “I was so blown away by this vineyard,” Jim exclaims. “It’s 600 feet straight south, the most epic view in Oregon, and the soil up there is nothing but stones. There are no stones in Oregon, but up there, it looks like you’re in the Walla Walla with the river stones. It’s the stoniest vineyard I’ve ever seen in Oregon.” Although Pinot Noir vines are planted nearby, “I’m convinced it’s a Chardonnay spot,” he insists. The 2022 Chardonnay Anela is singular and savory. Candied peaches and manuka honey mingle with dried sage, roasted hazelnuts and struck flint on the nose, and it teases you with slowly blossoming, spicy undertones. The palate is luxurious and satiny with kaleidoscopic, mouth-coating flavors, and its modest 30% new French oak is already well integrated. It has a foil of laser-like acidity, and its juiciness and hauntingly long finish draw you back to the glass again and again. “The Chardonnay in Oregon keeps getting better,” Jim says with a smile. “We’re unlocking some new things.”